Getting up in your grill

One of Amsterdam's more charming features is the relish with which the inhabitants seize every opportunity to eat outside. As soon as there's a hint of good weather, they pull small tables and chairs out onto their stoop or the pavement, light the candles, and open a chilled bottle of rose. You'll see -- and hear -- them out there until late at night, enjoying what counts for outdoor space here; few apartments have a roof terrace or garden. The frat boys along the street go one step further, pulling an old sofa out to the edge of the canal and occasionally setting up any awning across the street so that they can make beer runs to the kegs in their cellar without getting wet when it (inevitably) rains. We have rarely indulged in this particular Amsterdam activity; we have no stoop, and the patch of pavement outside our building is a favorite toilet area for dogs and junkies, making it less than appealing. While the parking spaces across the road tend to attract desperate tourists with their sandwiches, I'm always a little concerned that a car driver, delighted at spotting a rare space, will pull in at high speed and without looking. Low-level paranoia about imminent injury does not make for a good outdoor dining experience in my book.

However, last night we were invited to a pavement BBQ in the Jordaan -- and very pleasant it was, too. Sitting out on Palmstraat, we ate excellent fish kebabs and marinated giant prawns while watching cyclists, dog walkers, and the drunks from the local bar head (or stagger) by as the evening drew on. Nobody complained about our smoky dinner or the fact that we were taking up the pavement; in fact, our hosts Alan and Jo remarked that they had exchanged more pleasantries with their neighbours in that one evening than they had in the previous three years. Clearly, an outdoor dinner had marked them out as echte Jordaanse mensen. As night fell, the candles came out -- as did Alan's wickedly strong vodka-based caiparinas. We finally headed inside at around midnight as it turned blissfully and briefly cooler than it had been; when we finally sauntered home at around 1.30, the streets and bars were still filled with people having a late drink outside. All in all, a rather jolly Amsterdam evening.

Photos to follow. Apple is currently killing our network performance, so can't upload them. God, I HATE Apple.