Full of (Boston) beans

On my first business trip to Boston more than five years ago, I was persuaded to visit Legal Seafoods -- and was mightily disappointed. The restaurant had been sold to me as "the best seafood restaurant evah!!!" and yet the pint of prawns I had left me distinctly underwhelmed. Admittedly, I had been spoilt my experiences of seafood in Spain, particularly in the tiny Galician restaurant close to my brother's flat in the centre of Madrid. So when colleagues suggested that we revisit Legal Seafood for lunch yesterday, I was apprehensive. But what a difference six years makes! The restaurant is bigger, lighter, more appealing; the clam chowder was rich and creamy, with a good sprinkling of black pepper; and the popcorn shrimp was fabulous. Of course, the company was fabulous, too.

In fact, all the food I've had while here -- other than the usual dreary conference food -- has been great. Be it brunch at the Miracle of Science with it's blackened breakfast potatoes or the vast platter of Middle Eastern dips and flatbread at Zuzu's or the piedra with scallops at Dali's, the food has been fresh and "flavorful" -- a word I'd normally avoid using but that is highly appropriate here. And the drinks have been equally enjoyable; mojitos at Middlesex and the Madras Martini at Sidney's were strong but highly quaffable, and both came with some of the spiciest wasabi peas I've ever had.

The meals have been a revelation. When I first came to the US in 1990 -- and even in 2001 -- most food seemed bland and underwhelming. Perhaps it's the result of nearly five years of Dutch food (where the culinary peak is mashed potatoes with kale and a boiled supermarket sausage); perhaps my taste buds have grown used to the food of a nation that declares mild Indian curries to be "te pittig" (too spicy). Or perhaps it's the headlong rush into middle age that has dulled my palate and left me appreciative of milder fare. Either way, I can't wait to check out that gourmet paradise, San Francisco, later in the year.