Cry "God for Puddings, England and St George!"

Growing up, I was never one for overt patriotism. The jingoistic Little Englander mentality of the Thatcher years left me cold; the Daily Mail still does. But they say that absence makes the heart grow fonder, and certainly my years in Spain and the Netherlands have made me far more overtly "English" than I ever thought possible. This is particularly true when it comes to food. I seem to have spent my life defending English cooking to my European colleagues, and have found the best way to settle the debate is to produce a pudding. My chorizo-chomping students were stunned into submission with a proper English trifle -- albeit one made with magdalenas and natillas. My non-culinary Madrid-dwelling brother has asked for steamed pudding recipes with which he can impress his friends. And we keep a supply of M&S microwave Christmas puddings in the cupboard for those days when we just can't face any more stamppot or kaas.

So when Sam and Monkey Gland suggested an English pudding special for St George's Day, I felt compelled to take part. But what to cook? Jam roly-poly? Spotted dick? Not Norfolk enough! How about the inspiration for my pen name, Norfolk Dumpling? But it turned out that this is properly a savoury dish, traditionally served with gravy. Dorothy Baldock's book, Favourite Norfolk Recipes, came to my rescue: Norfolk Treacle Tart. This was also known as Walpole House Treacle Tart, because of its association with Norfolk's Walpole family -- producers of the first English Prime Minister, Sir Robert Walpole. What could be more appropriate than this?

Unusually, the filling doesn't contain breadcrumbs, but is instead a mixture of syrup, butter, cream, and eggs. It sets to a beautiful syrup curd, and the plain pastry case, courtesy of Delia, cuts through the sweetness.



Set oven to 350F or gas mark 4. Grease a 7 inch flan dish and line with 8 oz shortcrust pastry. Warm 7 tablespoons of golden syrup (Lyle's, of course) until it thins, then stir in the grated rind and juice of half a lemon, 1/2 oz melted butter, and 2 tbs cream. Strain 2 beaten eggs into the mixture and combine gently. Pour into the pastry case and bake for 35 to 40 minutes or until the filling is set and lightly golden. Serve hot or cold with cream.

What's For Pud?